Faced with a bunch of oddly cut pork chops that needed to be used up, I turned to one of my favorite recipes for them: It’s from the cookbook 1,000 Italian Recipes by Michele Scicolone.

What I especially like about the recipe is that it yields an elegant dish with minimal effort. Re-hydrated porcini mushrooms and red wine add intense, deep, woodsy notes, while a touch of cream, as Scicolone says, “gives the sauce a smooth texture and rich flavor.” Perhaps the only thing that might improve it would be to use heritage pork.

Pork Chops with Porcini and Red Wine (adapted from 1,000 Italian Recipes” by Michele Scicolone.)

Ingredients:

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
1 ½ cups warm water
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 center-cut pork loin chops, about 1 inch thick
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup dry red wine
¼ cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme (optional)

Directions:

1. Place the mushrooms in a bowl with the water. Let stand 30 minutes. Lift the mushrooms out of the liquid and rinse them well under running water, paying special attention to the base of the stems where soil collects. Drain, then chop fine. Pour the soaking liquid through a paper coffee filter-lined strainer into a bowl. (The mushrooms I used had a minimum of grit, so I skipped the rinsing as well as the use of a paper towel.)

2. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Pat the chops dry. Place the chops in the pan in a single layer. Cook until they are nicely browned, about 2 minutes.

3. Turn the chops over with tongs and brown on the other side, about 1 to 2 minutes more. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Transfer the chops to a plate (and tent loosely with aluminum foil).

4. Add the wine to the skillet and simmer 1 minute.

5. Add the porcini and their soaking liquid. Reduce the heat to low. Simmer 5 to 10 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced.

6. Stir in the cream and cook 5 minutes more.

7. Return the chops (along with any residual juices) to the pan. (I suggest turning the chops in the sauce to coat.) Cook 5 minutes more, or until the chops are just cooked through and the sauce is thickened. Serve immediately on warmed plates. Optionally, sprinkle with chopped thyme.

Wine Pairing: Dolcetto d’Alba, Pinot Noir